I sew quickly because I spent over 15 years sewing for my living. The faster and more efficient I could be the better. it is also about repetition. The first time I made a garment it would take me 10 times as long as the 10th time I made it. This is also a big reason why a custom garment will cost 10 times as much as off-the-rack.
Some tips:
- Put your ironing board right behind your sewing chair. Being able to turn your chair and iron each seam without having to get up saves a bunch of time!
- When hand sewing, always knot your thread twice. Cut the thread between the knots and you will have a pincushion full of threaded needles that are ready to use.
- Buy twice as many sewing machine needles as you think you might need.
- Never push or pull fabric through your sewing machine.
- If a seam is too thick to go through the machine, pound it down with a mallet. It will be easier to sew after and it is a satisfying feeling. Perfect when hemming pants.
- Trim your threads as you go.
Making historic clothing takes a lot of time that people don’t see.
The research part before I sew a stitch in definitely weeks, or months.
I make sure I am ready to sew by working out a lot of details way in advance. Like way.
Design/Research
This is an iceberg. It starts with- oh, I think I should finally make a “_____”. Then I research obsessively. It starts with gorgeous photos, and images of the clothing of the time, and works its way to the shape of all of the pieces. 18th century skirts are rectangles sewn together. Edwardian skirts are all sorts of fiddly curved pieces, with piles upon piles of decorative detail. Switching between those two time periods this year has meant starting completely from scratch. Except for the hats, interestingly enough. The hats are remarkably similar.
Structure garments
I figure out what the underpinnings would be. Then I figure out what the underpinnings would be for someone my size, and approximate age. These are generally two different sets of research. Being a plus size person, getting the right fit, support and amount of curve in the under layers of an outfit is so important.
December-February are the perfect months to just work on underwear. Decide then on a time period. Just that much. This year I picked Edwardian. I started way back then on the underthings and that means now I only have to make the pretty stuff on top.
Materials
Making the list of materials is so important, as it can determine if I can even afford to do a big project. By planning my Black Edwardian Gown for July starting in November, I was able to buy the material in stages, and get the very best prices by waiting for sales, and ordering online. The only thing locally bought was thread. We have only chain fabric stores nearby, and none of them carry the fabrics I was looking for.
Sew garments from the inside layers out
I have worn gowns to events many, many times to events having never tried then on. Why? Because it saves time. How? By making a garment that I know fits over my foundation garments. I know because I draft the pattern from those foundation garments, and any additional measurements I need. I trace the actual foundation corset/bodice/etc not the pattern for that garment. This is because all of these garments stretch out and conform to my body with wear. By tracing a garment that currently fits well I have a far better chance at creating a garment that fits well than using a pattern made by anyone else.
Lastly- Getting the timing right
Then there is the reality check. Do I really have time to get this done right? Really? Without making myself crazy in the meantime? I have even posted things to my facebook friends suggesting that it is time to start planning their cold weather garments for our local renaissance festival- in early August.
Can I afford the materials to do it right?
If I plan in August, I can budget my time and the money for September and with luck be warm in October.
If it is the first week in October I will be practically out of time, and might not have money for material. I would then be cold and complain-y and whinge that life just got in the way, etc etc. I now have the experience to know that if I watch and plan early I can have the new sewn thing. I will also hear the classic “I don’t know how you can throw together such nice things so quickly” line. I can because I started planning two months ago.
All of this is HARD.
Here is how to speed up the process
Design: If I pick a design I have made before but wanted to perfect, or a design that works over foundation garments I already own it saves potentially months or time right there.
Materials: Making a garment with materials I already own is ace. Picking a garment to make based on what is on sale and available? Also ace.
A case in point
I have been trying to figure out a celestial theme dress for months and still haven’t figured out what to do. I have designed it in my head so many dang times. I have researched and priced out fabrics. I ordered 3 different kinds of inexpensive stars from ebay knowing they would take months to arrive. They got here ages ago. I have little star shaped mother-of-pearl buttons and 50+ spangled stars. I haven’t started anything yet. Once I firmly make up my mind, I can sew something together in a week or two of evenings after work. But I have got to make up my mind soon! LOL.
Solution: I am seriously leaning toward retail. I have spent so much time undecided that I have only a month and a half to go before my event. I can custom order a dress online, then trim the life out of it and make a headdress. This reasonable solution is the clear winner because I don’t have any intention of having a last minute freak out.