Working on the collar and cuffs

This is finally the point where it starts to look more like the photo. Months of planning and sewing finally coming true!

The first breakthrough was making the bunches of grapes larger. As soon as I put the first one on the collar, it was like *ding* success.

Yes, this means more grapes. *head desk*

Finishing the blouse collar

The ruffle at the edges is clearly not lace. I think it looks like pinked chiffon. So, another type of fabric going into the desss. I made white silk chiffon ruffles, and added them in. Even with pinking the edges, it is fraying badly. I think fray check would stain. I think I am going to water down some Elmer’s glue and do a test patch to see if that helps the fraying.

I am pleased with the result so far, and I might add another small white lace layer, not sure. I am debating if I want to introduce a new pattern.

The challenge of the cuffs.

I have been pondering how to do these cuffs for months. The lace in the cuffs just doesn’t look like the lace on the collar, no grapes!

I have even wondered if the blouse originally was a separate item not part of the original ensemble. How would it be, when tucking in the shirt would show through the skirt? The sheer layers are so tricky! I am solving the problem by making everything in carefully planned layers, sewn together.

So, are the cuffs sheer? One layer of lace only? But that would drape and fall strangely. I also want to work in some boning so that I can make sure the cuffs don’t just crumple.

Wanting to put boning in means two layers of fabric, or a boning casing. Two layers of fabric sounded like the best way to make it look simple even if it isn’t.

First I made a set of cuffs for the white undershirt, then a set for the black over shirt. I can’t tell if the original cuffs are lace over white or what, but I know two layers of black chiffon are too much. And there will be one layer of black chiffon under that lace of the collar. So, I made the black cuffed of one layer of black and one of white. This is seeming to be a good idea, but again the sheer fabric shows every fold.

Trim covers many sins, right?

The first layer of trim for the cuffs is one I ordered back in December. It looks like it could be fresh eat with lace? Maybe? Well, I found fishnet with lace. It is coolio, but floppy.

As soon as I put the lace into the cuff the ugly seam allowances become way less of an issue 😀once I put the small rows of velvet ribbon on top? Wow!

Getting close now. But when I look back at the photo, there seems to be a shadow of lace in the middle of the cuffs. I think putting one row of the lace trim from the collar under there will do the trick.

How much is left?

I am guessing about 20 hours more. Ah, deceptively simple dress, how you vex me.